Update 1: Knitted Cabled Tee Turned Vest

As I mentioned before, I've been in a bit of a knitting doldrums lately.  For a while, I just didn't feel like knitting.  But I rallied myself, and now I'm hard a work on two different knitting projects - which means I haven't made much progress to show on either.

That said, I do have some info and notes to share on my Swingy Knitted Tee.  As you can see from the photo above, I'm a few inches away from splitting the front and back at the armpits.  The cable pattern on this top is even more amazing in person and relatively easy since you only do it once on the front of this top. 

The rest of the pattern has not been so easy for me - all of my own doing and because I'm making a bunch of changes:

1.  I'm knitting this in round to the armpits instead of in parts.  Not a big deal - I really don't know why this pattern wasn't written to be knit in the round.  It's so much quicker.  I'm also deleting the ribbing from the back and just knitting it in straight stockinette.

2.  I'm using a light worsted weight Berroco Vintage yarn (in denim) for this project.  Although it's a light worsted weight, it isn't really dk as the pattern calls for, so my gauge was off enough to cause some calculations.  Sadly, even the small size cast on listed in the pattern was going to be too big with my gauge, so I did my own math based on my body measurements, then added 6 more stitches to the front side as the pattern had for each size.

3.  I doing 10 sets of decreases then 1 increase to shape my top and to match my chest size.

4.  I had originally planned to cast on for a wider looser bottom to create a swingy shape to my top, but it was going to require too many decreases to make the chest fit and I thought it would look weird.  It was also going to require more yarn than I have.

5.  I may still have a yarn storage issue and I've (almost) decided to knit this garment as a sleeveless vest instead of a top.  One - I think to knit the sleeves, I would need another skein of yarn.  And two - this worsted weight yarn is light, but still a little heavy for a short-sleeve top.  I doubt I'd ever wear it as a tee.  I think I will wear it more in colder months as a vest over another another top or blouse.  But... I haven't made up my mind completely.  I will make my final decision when I get to the armpits and see how much yarn I have at that point.

Stay tuned :)

Favorite Knitting Patterns: Spring Tops and Tees

170-4 Butterfly Heart Top by Drops Design

I'm in a bit of a knitting doldrums.  I have projects I'm working on, but none of them have me very excited.  So, in hopes of awakening my knitting juju, I've started looking at knitting patterns for tops and tee shirts for the soon-to-be-upcoming warmer weather.

One top that certainly got my attention is the Butterfly Heart Top by Drops Design (see above).  It's a free pattern and I love it.  I'm almost absolutely sure I'll be knitting this soon (maybe).  I love the shape of this tank and the lace design (check out the back on the pattern page too!).  I'd love to knit this up in Hempathy, which I've never used but friends have raved about. 

Zarah by Emily Norah O'Neil

Next up - "Zarah" by Emily Norah O'Neil for Berroco:  this top was designed for Berroco's new yarn. Elba.  Elba sounds like an interesting new yarn, but I'm more excited about the stitch pattern on this tee.  It's a fun mix of knit and purl stitches that form little spheres across this top.  So cute!

El Jardin by Irina Anikeeva

Another favorite is "El Jardin" by Irina Anikeeva.  This pretty, lacy top has been in my Ravelry queue for a while.  It looks like the perfect spring top (knit in sport weight yarn) and has a lovely shape to it.  I particularly like Karina's bright yellow version on Ravelry.

Jewel Neck Tee by Gayle Bunn

Last, but certainly not least - I'm still working on my Jewel Neck Tee by Gayle Bunn.  I'm enjoying this knit, and the cable up the front is even more stunning as I see it develop in the stitches.  I planned to make this a loose, swingy top but for various reasons, have decided to make it more form fitting (I'll post an update with my notes soon).  I'm about three inches from the underarms and will soon have to decide whether to follow my plan and knit some loose short sleeves for this top, or instead turn it into a sleeveless vest.  Watch for my update soon!

Latest Knitting Project: Swingy Cabled Tee

Jewel Neck Tee by Gayle Bunn © Westminster Fibers Yarn, 2013

A few months ago, I laid out a carefully constructed plan for my future knitting projects.  Well, of course, it's all going to heck in a hand basket.

One part of my plan was to use up my leftover Berroco Vintage yarn by knitting Andee Fagan's Standing Stone Cowl.  I really love this pattern, but I've hemmed and hawed over whether I'd ever really wear it (though as I look at the photos again, I'm thinking about it once more).

Then I found Gayle Bunn's Jewel Neck Tee (photo above).  This tee has one of the prettiest cable patterns I've ever seen.  And I think I will get a lot more wear from a tee than I would from a poncho.

So now I've set out to make some modifications to knit this tee:

• I'm casting on for a wider bottom hem to give this top more of a swingy shape
• Doing more decreases as I work to the chest to form a loose A-line shape.
• Removing the ribbing that runs up the back.
• Removing the ribbing from the sleeves.  I don't really like it.  I may knit looser drapey sleeves.

I'll post updates as I move along with knitting this cabled top.

{Pet Peeve} Knitting Patterns with Dark Photos

"Sleet" by Marie Wallin from http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sleet-4

Excuse me for going off on a bit of a rant here, but I can't stand it when knitting patterns have dark photos.  To my mind, the photos are posted and included to encourage you to buy/knit the pattern, but how can you decide if you want to knit something that you really can't see?

 

Rowan (see above) is kind of notorious for this.  If the photo isn't almost pitch black, than the model is posed in some way that completely obscures the knitted item that they are trying to sell to you.

"Cabled Batwing Cardigan" by Debbie Bliss from http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cabled-batwing-cardigan

Here's an example:  I've been thinking about knitting a cape-poncho-like sweater and have been searching around for the right pattern.  I came across this Cabled Batwing Cardigan by Debbie Bliss which certainly has some possibilities.  But the accompanying pattern photo makes it hard to really make out the shape and detail of this sweater.  Between the dark color of the sweater and the dark background, the design of this sweater is lost. 

Wouldn't it make more sense to knit the sample in a brighter or lighter color, then photograph it in a way that highlights the beauty and specialness of this pattern?

"Frances" by Debbie Bliss from http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/frances-18

I mean, really, what can you really tell about the design of the sweater above? 

Vale Cardigan Sweater Update 4: Final Reveal & Last Thoughts

I finished my Vale Cardigan for the Very Shannon Summer Sweater Knit-a-long (#sskal15) with a few weeks to spare (hurrah!)  Though it's taken me a bit of time to get used to how this sweater looks on me, I do like it very much.

 

The cabling on this sweater is what I first fell in love with, and it is truly beautiful.  I particularly love how the cable design falls on the sleeves.  And the moss stitch creates a sturdy fabric that should be quite warm this winter.

I've posted my notes on my mods, knitting the back and front pieces, and the sleeves already, so I only have a few more comments:

1.  It took me a while to get used to the draping front pieces on this cardigan.  I think it might be a bit too much on me and makes my hips and chest wider.  I wonder if deleting 10 to 15 stitches from each of the front pieces would make the front not hang as much.  I know this would also make the lapels narrower.  It's an interesting idea for modification, but I have no plans to re-knit this sweater.

2.  I do love my choice to knit this cardigan in Berroco Vintage.  I've knit with Vintage before and it seemed a slight bit scratchy.  However, this batch/color is rather snuggly and doesn't seem to have that itch quotient.  And I really love this Dungaree color.  It's the perfect medium blue to go with so many things in my closet.

And it's a good thing I like the color - I have about 550 yards left after knitting my Vale Cardigan.  I'm thinking about knitting the Standing Stones Cowl by Andee Fagan with the remainder.

I been thinking about knitting a poncho and I love how this design can be worn as a cowl or poncho.

Looking forward to cooler temperatures and wearing my new Vale Cardigan :)

Sweater Update 3: Vale Cardigan Sleeves - Count Your Stitches & Check Your Math

So I've finished both sleeves for my Vale Cardigan.  Usually I don't have much to say about knitting sleeves - they are what they are.  But this time, I have a few notes to share:

 1.  After going back and forth on making the sleeves longer or not, I decided to knit them as written in the pattern.  I just decided to trust Norah Gaughan's brilliance and style, and go with what she had designed.  This worked out great.  On me, the sleeves uncuffed are almost full length.  And when I fold up the cuff, the sleeves are the perfect 3/4 length.  I think this will work beautifully.  The sleeves, are however, a bit snug.  I blocked them to the proper size and I hope with wear, they might loosen up some.

One of the reasons why I decided to knit the sleeves as written is I really loved the way the cables laid out on the model shot, with the full loop hitting in the middle of the upper arm.  I definitely wanted my sleeves to look the same and decided not to mess with the pattern.  I think the cable design is something to think about before you change the length of the sleeves.

2.  Just an FYI - I found some mistakes with the sleeve directions.  I made the second smallest size and found the errors there.  I didn't check to see if the errors affected other sizes too.

For my size, you cast on 42 stitches.  The directions say that after doing the ribbing and the increases to create the cable panel, you should 6 stitches left.  This isn't true - you have 12 stitches left, which centers the cable pattern on the sleeves as it should be.

Second issue:  The next direction starts the set up row.  You're told to purl 13 sts before starting the cable pattern, but you only have 12 sts to work with.  This is obviously a mistake, but you need an odd number of sts for the moss design.  I remedied this by doing a quick increase on this row before hitting the cable panel.  I did a knit front and back while working a knit stitch in the moss pattern.  My increased stitch then became the purl stitch I needed, and I just continued working in pattern.  I did this on both sides of the cable panel to make the 52 sts I needed.

3.  I thought about knitting my sleeves in the round.  I didn't do it, but I think you can.  I would suggest casting on two more stitches than the pattern calls for, to keep your k2, p2 ribbing in pattern, then do 1 less increase along the length of your sleeve.

So, I've completed the knitting on this sweater and have seamed the pieces.  Finished shots of the full sweater to be posted soon, along with my final thoughts and comments!

Sweater Project Update 2: Vale Cardigan Back Section & Fronts

from http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwbis11/PATTvale.php

I've finished the back and front sides of my Vale sweater for the Very Shannon Summer Sweater Knit-Along.  I think I'm right on track to finish this cardigan by the end of the KAL on Sept 8.  I'm excited to have this sweater complete in time for Fall.  I think I'm really going to love it and get a lot of wear out of it.

And because I'm a nice person (sort of), I thought I'd put all my notes for knitting the back and front pieces in one post in case they help someone else :)  So here we go:

the back of my Vale sweater

 THE BACK

1.  As I said in my previous post, this sweater can look a little different depending on the size you make.  The smaller sizes have only three columns of cables across the back, instead of the four shown in the model shot.  I really like the sample sweater, so this was a little disappointing, but I understand that this would change depending on the size of the garment.

2.  Be sure to knit your swatch in moss stitch, not Stst.  I had knit my back piece up pass the underarms when I measured and realized it was going to be a bit small.  When I looked back at the directions, I had realized my swatch was off, which threw off my sizing.

To give myself a little more room in the hips, I cast on again with a #9 needle, and changed to #8 on row 4 of the cable chart.  I knit most of the chart with the size #8, then to tighten up the chest and shoulders, I changed to a #7 about an inch before starting my underarm decreases.

3.   I've lengthened this cardigan a bit too, which I hope I like in the end.  I've added about 1 1/2 inches to the length by starting my underarm shaping at 13 inches instead of at 11 1/2 inches.   

4.  I think the beginning of the charts for both the back and the fronts is a little confusing.  When starting the cable charts (for both the back and front pieces), you need to use Row 1 of the charts TWICE as your set up row (once as the right side, then once as the wrong side).  This will make sense when you knit the pattern.  By using Row 1 twice, it sets you up to do the rest of the charts with the even rows being the right side of your work.

5.  This is a picky thing that might only bother me - but try to pay attention to the cable chart when it comes time to bind off for the shoulder shaping.  I didn't want to end the cable chart and bind off in a weird place where I was halfway through a pointy arrow or something in the design.  I thought this might would look even weirder when I seamed my front and back pieces together.  So when I was a few inches from binding off, I looked at the pattern and chose a point just after doing a cable cross on one of the arrow designs to begin my binding off.  This way, at the shoulders, I'll have two points coming together.

my Vale progress - overlapping the pieces as if they were seamed

THE FRONTS

I followed my notes from above for the front pieces too, so the cable pattern and my decreases would match up.  I only have a few additional notes:

1.   I think there's a mistake on the directions for the decreases on the side seams of the two front pieces.  The directions say you should start the decreases on Row 20 for the back portion.  But the directions for each front piece say you should start the decrease FOR THE SIDE SEAMS on Row 2.  I chose to ignore this and did my side decreases on the same rows as my back decreases so they match up.

2.  Because I lengthen my cardigan by an 1 1/2 inches, I had to adjust where I started shaping the front lapels too.  I honestly don't remember how I figured this out, but I shifted them up about an 1 and 1/2 inches.

3.  This is another weird thing that happens depending on the size you make:  after doing your shoulder shaping for the front pieces, the directions say to "work straight"  to create the neck band.  I think in the larger sizes, this will have you knitting moss stitch for 13 sts and then garter stitch to maintain the neck edging, which is fine and looks good.  However, in my smaller size, this would have me continuing only half of my cable, moss stitch for a few sts, then continuing my garter edge (see the tippy top of my photo above at the shoulder bind off).  This would look very strange as it wraps around the back of my neck.

So for the smaller sizes, this leaves you with two choices:  after finishing your shoulder shaping, you can purl the next 9 sts (which would continue the background of the cable column) then do your few moss sts and then maintain the garter edge.  Or you can switch to moss st for all 13 sts and then do garter st for your edge.  I think either choice is fine.  You just need to decide and stick with it for both front pieces.

I went with switching to moss st for all 13 sts.  After looking at the pattern photos, where they continued the moss st from the front, and other finished projects on Ravelry, this seemed like a good choice.  I thought purl, then moss, then garter might be a bit busy for the neck band when seen from the back.  But honestly, most people would never notice this detail.

And an update on my buttons decision:  After going back and forth on adding buttons to the upper part of the front pieces, I decided against it.  For my size, it just won't work.  To make my decision, I laid out my sweater pieces as if they were seamed (I did this just before I started my underarm decreases on my right piece) to see where I might place my buttons.  As you can see in the photo, I'd have to place my buttons in the middle of my column of cables to have it match up with the right hand edge.  So that's out.  I'm secretly happy.  I didn't really want to figure out how to add buttons in just the right place so that they looked like they belonged there.

So now I begin my sleeves - 3/4 length or long sleeves?  I can't decide.  But I'll let you know :)

{Favorites}: Top Sweater Knitting Patterns for Fall

River Pullover by Cecily Glowik MacDonald

loveknitting just added a fun post to their blog on the Top 5 Sweater Knitting Patterns for Fall!  It's 88 degrees here today, so on the one hand, I kinda enjoy the thought of Fall and cooler temperatures.  However, just looking at long sleeves and thick knits makes me sweat right now.  Ugh.

All that aside, I really do love the patterns they've chosen.  I'm pretty thorough in checking out patterns as they're added to Ravelry everyday.  I must admit, however, some of these skipped my radar and I'm glad to catch them again.  I'm adding them all to my knitting queue now :)

Two of my top favorites:  The River Pullover (above) by Cecily Glowik MacDonald and Peace and Love Sweater (below) by Anna Ravenscroft.  Do you have any favorites?

Peace and Love Sweater by Anna Ravenscroft

Sweater Project Update 1: Knitting the Vale Cardigan by Norah Gaughan

So the progress on my Vale Cardigan has been extremely s-l-o-o-o-w.  But that's okay.  I've completed the back and one front side so far.  While knitting this cardigan, I remembered why I try to avoid patterns that have a lot of moss stitch - it's a easy stitch pattern, but requires moving the yarn back and forth with every stitch, which means the project moves rather slowly for me.  But I'm not a fast knitter anyway. 

But I really love the look of this sweater and trust that this slow moving pattern will be worth it in the end :)  So here's what I've learned/realized so far:

from knitty.com

 1.  Just a head's up if you plan to knit this sweater - If you make one of the smaller sizes, the pattern includes only 3 columns of the cabling design, as opposed to the 4 columns shown in the pattern photo on Knitty.com.  This is completely understandable in order to change the size of the sweater, but I am a little disappointed to have less design on the back on my size small sweater (see my photos above).

2.  The gauge listed in the pattern is for MOSS Stitch, not stockinette stitch.  You'll want to avoid making the stupid mistake I did.

from knitty.com

3.  Each front side of this cardigan is almost as wide as the back section of this cardigan.  This is what creates the swing shape of this sweater, but is also going to create two very wide, loose front pieces.  I had thought about adding a few buttons to be able to close this cardigan if I wanted, but now I'm not sure. If I add buttons, I think it's going to look really weird when buttoned, but I'm still thinking about it.

4.  There's a few minor mistakes I've found in the pattern so far:

When starting the cable charts for both the back and front pieces, you need to use Row 1 of the charts TWICE as your set up row (once as the right side, then once as the wrong side).  This will make sense when you knit the pattern.  By using Row 1 twice, it sets you up to do the rest of the charts with the even rows being the right side of your work.

Then I think there's a mistake on the directions for the decreases on the side seams of the two front pieces.  The directions say you should start the decreases on Row 20 for the back portion.  But the directions for each front piece say you should start the decrease FOR THE SIDE SEAMS on Row 2.  I chose to ignore this and did my side decreases on the same rows as my back decreases so they match up.

5.  I've also lengthened this cardigan a bit.  I've added about 1 1/2 inches to the length by starting my underarm shaping at 13 inches instead of at 11 1/2 inches.  I hope this turns out to be a good decision and that I don't run out of yarn because of it.

I'll post more updates as I start the sleeves.

Knitty.com ~ That Endless Free Wealth of Knitting Goodness

knitty.com

I try to check out Knitty.com every time a new quarterly issue is posted.  I think the folks there do an excellent job of putting out a great knitting resource full of wonderful free articles, information, and patterns.  But I must admit that most of the time I just give it a quick glance. 

Lately however, searching by way of Ravelry, I've happened upon some marvelous Knitty patterns and have had the chance to revisit some old favorites.  Now my current and upcoming knitting queue is loaded with patterns from Knitty.  Here are some that I've knitted recently or have waiting in my queue:

My version of the Blossoms by the Brook shawl by Ilga Leja.  I've already posted about this project.  I really love it and I am looking forward to wearing it A LOT when the weather is cooler again.

Vale by Norah Gaughan

One of my current knitting projects, Vale by Norah Gaughan.  I love the look of this pattern, and can't believe it's available for FREE on Knitty.com.  I've completed the back section and I am almost done with one side of this cardigan.  Will post an update when I have the side complete.

Fracetured Light Mitts by Kirsten Kapur

Fractured Light Mitts by Kirsten Kapur (also includes a pattern for a matching hat):  I have this pattern in my queue.  I was going to knit these mitts with some stash yarn, but I like the pattern so much that I think I will buy something special to knit them with, then find the perfect buttons to go on them!  You know how much I love vintage buttons :)

Hidden Gusset Mitts by Mone Dräger

The Hidden Gusset Mitts by Mone Dräger:  My friends have made these mitts, and the pattern is just beautiful.  I rarely knit with light fingering weight yarn, but I might just to make these sweet mitts.

Lace Ribbon Scarf by Veronik Avery

And, of course, the Lace Ribbon Scarf by Veronik Avery.  I've posted about this beauty quite recently.  I still love this pattern. 

Knitting: Falling out of love, and back in again (Vale Cardigan by Norah Gaughan)

Well, as these things sometimes happen, I've fallen out of love a bit with my striped sweater project.  I'm just not feeling it right now.  I'll probably go back to it, or frog it and make something even better :)

But for now, I've moved on to something I really love:  The Vale Cardigan by Norah Gaughan from Knitty.com.  (Be sure to check Ravelry for some changes to the yarn amounts for this pattern.)

Vale Cardigan by Norah Gaughan from Knitty.com

Quite possibly the most beautiful sweater design there ever was - just gorgeous.  And the best part?  Because this sweater is a shorter length, I don't have to start out with one size for my hips and decrease down to a smaller size for my shoulders!  This rarely happens - Hurray!

I'm so excited about this project, and I'm still knitting it as part of Very Shannon's KAL.  I'm using Berroco Vintage in dungaree for my sweater.  I think it will be a nice neutral color that I'll e able to wear a lot and with everything.

Berroco Vintage in Dungaree

Now I know I said I wouldn't need to do any modifications to the pattern, but I am thinking about making two changes:

1.  I'm thinking of making the sleeves full length by adding an additional cable repeat.  I think long sleeves will be more practical on this worsted weight cardigan.

2.  I'm also considering adding a row of two or three buttons with buttonholes to the upper edge of the lapels of this sweater.  I think it would be a nice design element, and you know I like buttons :)  I also think I'd like the ability to button the top of this sweater in some situations.

I won't get this sweater done in time for the end of the KAL (which ends in a couple of days).  I'm going to take my time with this project and make the right modifications to create a sweater I'll really love.  Stay tuned for updates along the way!

Striped Sweater Update: Knitting Jogless Stripes

When I started planning my striped sweater pattern, one thing I had to consider is whether to knit it in the round or in pieces.  In the round was going to be easier, and quicker, and with less finishing - but I had to be concerned with the jog or notch at the end of each round that knitting stripes can create.

But if you follow knitting posts on Pinterest at all, you know that there are a ton of tutorials on how to knit jogless stripes.  So I decided to plow ahead and knit my sweater in the round - and went searching for techniques to combat the jogs in my stripes.

I ended up following this tutorial from Knit Purl Hunter on YouTube.

I'm okay with the results, but not completely thrilled.  All of the tutorials are basically the same.  As you start the second round with your new color, you lift up the stitch below and work it with your current color.  Generally, this works great.  But on my thinner stripes, you can see it looks just a little wonky (and even worse when I also do a decrease during this stripe).  Notice my beige or green stripes in the top photo.

Regardless of the wonky-ness, this technique probably looks better than jogs all up one side of my sweater.  And I'm hoping it all looks perfectly fine with a good block after I'm done.  Here's hoping!